This is the eighth in a series of sew/quilt-along posts about making a bargello quilt.
I am following the pattern for Cascade, the most beginner-friendly pattern from Colorwash Bargello Quilts.
I’ve picked out my border and am ready to sew it on.
When I first started quilting many, many years ago, I would just lay my border strip across the end of the quilt, sew it on, and then cut off any extra border fabric that extended past the edge of the quilt.
Sometimes this method seemed to work just fine; but other times, I would find myself grappling with quilt edges that were bowed instead of straight, wavy edges, or even little “volcanoes” or bulging areas within the quilt.
The problem was that the outer edges of a pieced quilt sometimes seem to “grow” or stretch a little more (from handling?) than the interior of the quilt. This tendency could be exacerbated if the pieced quilt had a lot of small pieces, strip-piecing, bias edges, or even just a lot of cross-grain pieces – especially if the fabrics in the quilts varied even a little in weave. (High-quality batik fabrics usually stretch a little less than high-quality quilting-weight cottons, which usually stretch a little less than chain-store quilting cottons, etc.)
What I eventually learned is that perfectly flat quilts with perfectly square corners are much easier to achieve if you follow these tips:
- Always measure through the center of the quilt to determine border lengths
- Always cut parallel borders together, so that they are exactly the same in length
- Pin, pin, pin!
BUT if the discrepancy between the center of the quilt and the outer edge of the quilt is more than 1/4″, I recommend strategically trimming the quilt top or “squaring it up” before proceeding with the borders!
Here is how this method looks in practice:
I like to add the side borders first, so I begin my measuring through the center of the quilt vertically
This is the seventh in a series of sew/quilt-along posts about making a bargello quilt.
I am following the Cascade pattern from Colorwash Bargello Quilts.
The body of the quilt top is complete, and now it is time for the border.
Cascade from Colorwash Bargello Quilts – ready for borders! (the blue painter’s tape numbers at the top of each vertical row can also come off now)
When I teach quilting classes or workshops, I usually caution class participants to wait, if possible, to make their final choice of border fabric until the interior of the quilt has been completed. This is because the sum can be much more than its parts! The way the colors, values, and visual textures of the fabrics interact with each other, as well as with the border fabric, can produce significantly different results from what you might anticipate.
Furthermore, like any scrap quilt (or multi-fabric quilt), a bargello quilt can often be made to read as a “blue” or “brown” or “green” quilt simply by adding a border of that color.
I find it helpful to lay the quilt top out on top of any fabric I am considering for a border so that I can see the border fabric on most or all of at least 2 sides of the quilt top.
To illustrate, I’ll share with you some of the border fabrics I “auditioned” for this project: Continue Reading…
This is the sixth in a series of sew/quilt-along posts about making a bargello quilt.
I’m following the Cascade pattern from Colorwash Bargello Quilts.
We’re on the home stretch!
The vertical rows have all been numbered and are ready to sew. Just like before, I start with a small piece of “header” fabric in my machine, stitch across it, take a stitch or two on “air” and then (without raising the presser foot), slide my first set of strips under the presser foot.
I sew all of the strips into sets of 2, always first checking the numbers at the top of each strip to make sure the strips are in the correct order and orientation.
Checking the numbers at the top of each strip before sewing them together
The horizontal seams should “nest” against each other. I watch from the side and “finger pin” as I go, but you can use regular pins if you prefer.
This is the fifth in a series of sew/quilt-along posts about making a bargello quilt.
Now that my loops are all cut from the strip-pieced tubes (see previous post), I’m ready to open the loops up and lay out the bargello segments that form the vertical rows. This is exciting, as it will be the first chance to see what the finished quilt will look like.
I start by laying all the loops on my worktable in order. Remember – the colors are different in the photo only because the tubes have been rotated differently. All of the odd numbered loops have been cut from one tube, and all of the even numbered loops have been cut from another tube.
Laying the loops out in order first on the worktable – note the alternating direction of the seam allowances
Now it’s time to open up the loops!
I like to use an inexpensive foam core board for this. Being able to look at the design vertically helps immensely. As I open each loop, I pin it to the board and transfer the number to the top of the bargello strip.
This is the fourth in a series of sew/quilt-along posts about making a bargello quilt.
Two sets of fabric, each sewn into a tube, seam allowances pressed in opposite directions.
Once you have your fabric sewn into tubes, it’s time to cut the bargello segments.
There is a cutting chart for each project in Colorwash Bargello Quilts. I’m following the chart for Cascade here and am cutting my segments 1 1/4″ – 2 3/4″ wide, but you can design your own pattern if you’d prefer.
Either way, the most important thing to remember is to cut all of the odd numbered segments from one tube and all of the even numbered segments from the second tube.
I begin by sliver-trimming first, to give myself a clean edge to work from.
I also number the loops (bargello segments) as soon as I cut them, so that I don’t get the order of the loops mixed up. (Don’t ask me how I know how easily this can happen….) Continue Reading…
This is the third in a series of sew/quilt-along posts about making a bargello quilt.
Once you have your strips cut (each pattern in Colorwash Bargello Quilts tells you how many strips to cut – Cascade requires 2 strips of each fabric, each strip 2″ x 20-21″), it’s time to sew them together.
Note: the original Cascade pattern calls for 19 fabrics. I am using 20 for this new quilt.
Use 2 different colors for your top thread and bobbin thread. You’ll see why later!
First of all, I highly suggest using a noticeably different color thread in the top of your machine than what you are using in the bobbin. This makes no difference when you sew the strip sets, but it will make a LOT of difference later…
I also have a few tricks I’d like to share that might help you avoid uneven strip sets, seam allowances that curl, or puckers or pleats in the seams:
- A consistent seam allowance is a MUST. Quilters generally stick with 1/4″ seams. For this kind of project, an exact 1/4″ isn’t as important as a consistent seam allowance that measures the same width at any point along the seam.
Two styles of quarter-inch presser feet. I prefer the one with the blade, but either one can help keep seams consistent.
- I also recommend a straight stitch throat plate, if you have one.
A zigzag throat plate (left) vs. a straight stitch throat plate (right)
This is the second in a series of sew/quilt-along posts about making a bargello quilt.
I spend two entire chapters discussing selecting a palette of fabrics and using color, value, and visual texture to help arrange them to maximum effect in my book Colorwash Bargello Quilts. I won’t try to repeat all of that here, but I’ll boil it down to essentials.
Note: Since batik fabrics are generally more tightly woven (and therefore have a little less stretch) than other quilting-weight cottons, I highly recommend that you stick with either ALL batik fabrics or NO batik fabrics for your first bargello quilt. The slight differential in stretch can make matching intersections more of a pain than a pleasure when assembling the quilt. However, if you have lots of strip-piecing experience, press very carefully, and are accustomed to mixing these fabrics, than feel free to go ahead – I do it myself! I just want to warn you that it has the potential to make life a little more challenging…
- I generally use 18 or more different fabrics in a Colorwash Bargello quilt. Don’t worry – it’s a lot easier to pick out that many fabrics than it sounds! It helps if you don’t overthink it at the beginning of the process. I recommend starting with either a focus fabric, a mental picture, or a theme.
- The easiest type of focus fabric to work from is a medium-to-large scale, asymmetrical, multicolored print containing a range of values from dark to light. But don’t fall into the trap of overmatching the exact colors in your focus fabric! Variations in color, value, and/or intensity only add to the richness of your palette.
- Once you have your focus fabric, mental image, or theme in mind, start gathering fabrics that share the same or similar colors, making sure to also grab fabrics that are lighter, darker, brighter or duller. It’s best to have lots to choose from!
- I narrow down my choices by grouping fabrics into “runs” – 2 or more fabrics arranged from light to dark and “blenders” – fabrics that have 2 or more colors and/or values that can be used as transitions between runs.
Grouping my fabric into “runs” and identifying potential “blenders”
This is the first in a series of sew/quilt-along posts about making a bargello quilt.
For a little more background information, you can check out my previous post, Colorwash Bargello.
For this series, I’ll be referring to the Cascade pattern from my book Colorwash Bargello Quilts. If you don’t have the book or would rather design your own bargello quilt, you can still follow along and find a lot of (hopefully!) helpful information.
This has been one of my most popular bargello classes, as it can easily be completed in a day (or two days, if you are having lots of fun with your friends).
To help you start brainstorming a color palette for your own bargello quilt, I’d like to share some of the ways my students and friends have interpreted this pattern:
The Celtic True Lovers’ Knot has been appliquéd, quilted, and trimmed, and is now ready for the binding.
This would allow you to use the completed piece as a wallhanging. I did consider a wallhanging – I especially liked how it looked when I hung it on point – but I already have several of this design, so I thought it would be fun to turn it into a pillow, instead.
This method works not only with this Celtic project, but with any orphan quilt block or cool fabric that you might have on hand. If you use fabric that hasn’t been quilted, I recommend fusing a layer of Pellon 987F to the back of the fabric before proceeding. I like the extra shape and softness it gives the pillow.
How to Turn a Quilted Block into a Decorator Pillow:
Note: This is actually a pillow cover, as it is easy to remove for laundering – an important factor with kids and pets! Continue Reading…
The lines that form my Celtic and Celtic-style knotwork designs are formed by cutting bias strips of fabric and sewing them into tubes, which are then fused onto background fabric. For this project, I added the borders, layered the quilt top with batting and backing, and machine appliquéd and quilted the design in one step.
Now I’m ready to add a little more texture!
Since the design itself has already been appliquéd and quilted in one step, I’m going to start this stage by stitching in the ditch between my borders. This will further stabilize the quilt and help keep my borders straight. I usually recommend a walking foot for this step, but my layers are flat and stable enough that I am going to continue on with my standard presser foot.
Stitching in the ditch in the seam between the borders.
I could stop here, but I’m having too much fun. 🙂 Continue Reading…