My pillow lounger – ready to use! Next time I might buy enough fabric to match up the print properly; but I don’t think the kiddos will mind this time.
I love to sit on the floor with William (age 3) and Emilia (age 1) and play, but I sure don’t love trying to get up again. Nor am I impressed with how hard the floor feels after a while. Given that and also knowing how much fun the little ones have falling/jumping/snuggling into pillows, I figured we could come up with something that would work for all of us. Continue Reading…
So this post will be a little unusual – it’s a few links specifically requested by the lovely gals in my Invisible Machine Appliqué class who wanted to know where I found a few of the items I used in class today. Upon discussion, it was agreed that the easiest thing for everyone would be for me to post the links here.
First off, here are the light boxes/light pads I brought for everyone to use:
For a working surface just under 13″ x 17″:
In a previous post, I started experimenting with sewing quilt binding on the back of the quilt and then bringing it around to the front and appliquéing it down by machine (instead of sewing it to the front of the quilt, wrapping it around, and hand-stitching it on the back of the quilt).
I felt the experiment was successful, but the process needed refining. I’m going to give it another go. 🙂
This time I cut the binding strips 2 1/4″ wide. I still want the binding to be wider on the front of the quilt than the back (so that I don’t catch the binding in the appliqué stitching), but not as wide as in my first experiment.
I started by sewing the folded binding to the back of the quilt with a 1/4″ seam.
Then I wrapped the binding around to the front of the quilt, using Wonder Clips to hold it in place, and removed the clips as I worked my way around the quilt.
I was perplexed when I realized that the Baby Lock Jazz, which is marketed as a quilting and sewing machine, doesn’t come with a walking foot among the 9 included presser feet. It seems like a counter-intuitive omission. Not that big a deal for me, since I already have a deluxe Baby Lock low-shank walking foot for another machine that will also fit the Jazz, but definitely a first add-on purchase if you don’t have one on hand.
I truly enjoy free-motion machine quilting, so I tend not to do a lot of straight-line work. But I was intrigued with the number of quilts – particularly in the Modern Quilt exhibit – in the recent AQS show that featured simple straight-line channel quilting. The trend in show quilts of very dense, elaborate free-motion quilting seems to be still going strong, but the pendulum also seems to be swinging in the other direction – simple, but very graphic and effective, straight line quilting.
Since most of the fabrics I’ve designed for sale in my shop at Spoonflower.com (more on this another time) feature fairly complex designs, I’m thinking that straight line quilting might be an effective way to complement an overall quilt design without adding another layer of elaborate patterning.
Here is how I set up my machine:
- Aurifil 50 wt. cotton thread in the top and 60 wt. Bottom Line in the bobbin
- Schmetz Quilting Needle, size 75
- Walking foot with guide bar set 3/4″ from the needle (this width is purely personal preference)
- straight stitch
- stitch width: 3.5 (straight stitch setting on the Jazz, as discussed in my previous post)
- stitch length: about 2.25 (this is slightly longer than the stitch I used for piecing the quilt)
Stitch width and length settings I used for machine quilting with the walking foot
I started by using my white Clover Chaco Liner to mark one vertical line through the center of the quilt. This is the only marking I’ll need, since I’ve attached the guide bar to my walking foot. Since I don’t want to have any more than half the quilt going through my machine at a time, I will work from the center of the quilt to the right-hand side of the quilt, and then rotate the entire quilt and quilt from the center to the (new) right-hand side of the quilt again.
Side view of Baby Lock walking foot with adjustable guide bar attached
Continuing my evaluation of the Baby Lock Jazz – It’s time to piece a quilt!
One of the first things I looked for is a straight stitch throat plate, as I have found that very helpful for sewing perfectly accurate, consistently straight seams on other machines, especially when strip piecing. I was initially disappointed to find that there is no straight stitch throat plate available for the Baby Lock Jazz. But I decided to give it a go before making up my mind as to whether or not this poses a significant problem.
Here is how it went:
Since the last stitching I had done was a zigzag stitch, the first thing was to switch the machine back to a straight stitch. No problem. However, when I adjusted the stitch length to 0 (stitch width is not applicable for a straight stitch, right?) I immediately realized I had a problem:
I initially assumed I should set the stitch width to 0 for a straight stitch
Notice the problem – the needle hits the presser foot!
So I consulted the manual – which is terrific, by the way; very clear and well-illustrated.
Following the manual, I reset the stitch width to the dot marked on the dial.
This is the correct stitch width setting for a straight stitch
Perfectly lined up! Continue Reading…
So far the Jazz is performing superbly. 🙂
But an important test for me is how well it will do with invisible machine appliqué, as that is one of my specialties. Of course, my other machines are just great for this, but I’m excited about having much more workspace on the Jazz.
Here is how I set up the machine:
A regular zigzag presser foot works perfectly well, but I prefer an open-toe appliqué foot as it allows better visibility.
I like to use a very small zigzag stitch for this. Depending on the machine I am using, the width and length settings are usually somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.5, 1.5 or 2.0, 2.0. Here is how I set the stitch length and width on the Jazz:
Stitch settings on the Baby Lock Jazz for invisible machine appliqué – about 1.9 and 1.8.
After doing some test stitching on scrap fabric, I determined (to my surprise and delight!) that no tension adjustments were necessary. The stitches were perfectly balanced – no bobbin thread visible on the top of the fabric and no monofilament visible on the back.
However, I did find that the monofilament thread had a tendency to coil off and wrap around the spool pin, causing it to break; but I quickly solved that issue with a thread net placed over the spool.
Sliding a thread net over the spool keeps the thread feeding smoothly into the machine
I prepared my appliqué pieces by ironing the edges over freezer paper templates, which I removed later.
One side of the zigzag goes into the appliqué piece, while the other side goes only into the background fabric, just off the edge of the appliqué
I’m planning to put my new Baby Lock Jazz through its paces by testing how it performs while making a series of different projects. I’m starting with decorative pillow covers with invisible zippers.
Spoiler Alert – this is how my pillows look with their new covers 🙂
If you’d like to make a pillow cover of your own, here is what you’ll need:
- square pillow form to cover (or existing pillow that needs a facelift)
- invisible zipper, preferably at least 2″ longer than your pillow or pillow form
- home decor fabric (if using quilting-weight cotton, I recommend fusing interfacing such as Shape-Flex to the fabric before making the pillow – this will bring the fabric closer to decorator-weight)
- zipper foot and/or invisible zipper foot
Since I had 10 pillows to make new covers for, I purchased my invisible zippers in bulk – saving quite a bit of money in the process.
The zippers I purchased for my pillows
I love my Baby Lock Symphony, and plan to keep it; but I’ve had my eye on the Baby Lock Jazz for a while. This month, Brian from Lakeshore Sewing offered a deal too good to pass up and I finally took the plunge.
I’m excited about using this machine for home dec (particularly large projects), machine appliqué on large projects, and for machine quilting (both machine-guided and free-motion quilting). The fabulous 12″ of space to the right of the needle, heavy-duty casting and 1,000 SPT was what sealed the deal for me. Continue Reading…
From the American Quilter’s Society website:
“AQS QuiltWeek events are held in multiple cities across the country. These events make an indelible mark on the fiber art community by offering the largest cash prizes for quilters in the country, thanks to our generous sponsors! In additional to displaying the contest quilts at each event, attendees can enjoy a variety of special quilt exhibits from around the world. Each event also features workshops and lectures with top quilting instructors, and a huge Merchant Mall with vendors offering the latest machines, fabrics, and other tools used in quiltmaking.”
I had the pleasure of attending the last day of the Grand Rapids QuiltWeek, which ran Aug. 22-25, 2018.
I’ve been to many, many regional & national/international quilt shows over the past few decades, in a wide variety of roles, including contestant, exhibitor, speaker, teacher, and/or guest, and I have to say that this one was one of my favorites.
I renewed my AQS membership, too!
Sadly, my schedule only permitted me to spend a few hours at the show this year, which is not nearly enough time to take in everything. John (my husband) and I had to breeze through the show at a pretty fast clip to try to see as much as we could in the time we had, and I know there was much we missed.
That said, I thought it was a fabulous show! One of the things I liked the most was the wide variety of color palettes, techniques, and styles. In addition to all the competitive categories, the show included a number of wonderful special exhibits.
Here are some of my favorites – although quite of few of my photos didn’t turn out well enough to share, so this list is very incomplete!
In my last post, I started a sewing/quilting experiment by doing things a little differently than I normally would.
(1) I sewed the binding first to the back of the quilt (in the past, I’ve always sewed the binding to the front first)
(2) I purposely planned to have the binding finish at 1/4″ wide on the back and approximately 1/2″ wide on the front so I would stay clear of the binding on the back when sewing the binding down on the front of the quilt (in the past, I’ve always made sure my bindings were the same width on the front as on the back)
Now I’m ready for the next twist!
(3) Sewing the free edge of the binding down by machine instead of by hand.
And to take it even further,
(4) Appliquéing the free edge down with a small zigzag stitch!
The first step is to start wrapping the binding around to the front.
Bringing the binding around to the front